Also known as the Basilica Cathedral of Saint-Denis, this church has two major claims to fame: it is widely recognized as the first Gothic cathedral and, for centuries, it was the necropolis of the Kings of France.
Yet despite its importance to architecture and history, the Basilica of Saint-Denis remains largely ignored by today’s tourists.
Come and explore one of the most fascinating and overlooked destinations in Paris – the Basilica of Saint-Denis!
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Creation of the Basilica of Saint-Denis
The story of the Basilica of Saint-Denis begins far back in the history of Paris. In the 3rd century, the Christian bishop Denis was beheaded by the Romans in what is now Montmartre. According to legend, he picked up his severed head, walked several kilometers while preaching, and eventually came to rest here, on the spot where the church now stands.
Dagobert I, King of the Franks, founded an abbey church here in 632; he later became the first king to be buried here. A new church was built during Carolingian times to accommodate the growing number of pilgrims.
The most well-known person in the history of the basilica, and the one who was responsible for the building we see today, was Abbot Suger. An energetic and capable administrator, the churchman became a close associate of France’s king. In fact, he even served as regent of France while the king was away on crusade.
In 1122, Suger became head of the abbey at Saint-Denis. Ever loyal to the crown and his abbey, he sought to raise the prestige of both by building a new church to replace the Carolingian church, which was proving inadequate for the number of pilgrims visiting the relics of Saint Denis.
Suger’s vision for his new church was influenced by his belief that light was associated with God. Romanesque, up until then the prevailing church architectural style, was heavy and dark.
Making use of new building techniques, the new church featured ribbed vaults, pointed arches, and flying buttresses – all elements of what is now recognized as Gothic architecture. Walls suddenly seemed thin and soared high into the air; light was everywhere. The world had never seen anything like it.
The first Gothic church was born.
The new church at Saint-Denis caused a frenzy among other French towns. For the next few centuries, the Gothic style was the predominant architectural style in church building, as each town in France tried to prove their faith and increase their prestige through ambitious building plans. Chartres, Paris, Reims – but Saint-Denis was the one that started it all.
Twice sacked in the subsequent centuries, the Basilica of Saint-Denis was pillaged during the French Revolution due to its being a church and thanks to its association with the French monarchy. The bones of French kings were thrown into common graves. The abbey was destroyed. Miraculously, the church survived.
Restoration began under Napoleon, who meant to use it as a burial place for his own dynasty. That plan was halted with his downfall. The Bourbon dynasty was restored to the throne instead, and the bones of the French royals reinterred in the church.
In the 21st century, a new restoration project was begun. The façade was cleaned, and the stained-glass windows brought back to their former brilliance.
What to see at the Basilica of Saint-Denis
Visiting the church itself is free. Even from the nave, you can appreciate the elements of Gothic architecture that Saint-Denis pioneered – the ribbed vaults on the ceiling, the pointed arches, the use of light.
Also in this section, in a room off to the side, are old vestments and reproductions of French royal crowns. In former days, the church kept a veritable treasure-trove of ecclesiastic items, but these were removed during the French Revolution. Also prior to the Revolution, the French royal regalia was kept at Saint-Denis, although kings were crowned at Reims.
Heading to the back of the church, you’ll need to pay to enter the necropolis and apse, where the most interesting items are located. I recommend getting the audio guide, which gives a lot of useful information.
Immediately after entering the necropolis, you’re greeted with the recumbent statues of the kings and queens of France. The first statues were created during the reign of Saint Louis IX in the 13th century and evolved over time to fit the taste of each succeeding era.
The earliest statues appear generic, resting on a base, regally robed, and holding their symbols of power – and looking rather alike. Later, the figures began to exhibit their first signs of portraiture.
By the time you get to the Renaissance tombs, the humanist influence can be seen in the naturalness of the human form. (Surprisingly, the kings and queens of the Renaissance are depicted naked.)
Descending into the crypt, you’ll encounter the remains of two of the most famous figures of French history – King Louis XVI and his queen, Marie Antoinette. Their bodies were recovered after the Bourbon Restoration and deposited in the crypt, where they lie beneath simple black slabs of marble.
Nearby is the preserved heart of Louis XVII, their son. DNA testing in 2000 affirmed that the heart did belong to the uncrowned child king.
Across from the tombs of Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI are several recently discovered ancient tombs. Now empty, some are speculated to date all the way back to Merovingian times in the 6th and 7th centuries.
Also in the crypt, off in a small room that most people seemed to pass by, is the Ossuary, where the bones of the pre-Revolutionary kings and queens of France lie. Their names are inscribed on the walls behind which the bones are kept. During the French Revolution, the bones had been removed from St. Denis and thrown in a common grave. They were reinterred here after the Bourbon restoration.
Back upstairs, you’ll want to head to the ambulatory (the back of the church). Here you can admire the magnificent stained-glass windows that formed such an important part of Suger’s vision. Among the most impressive is the cycle that depicts the life of the Virgin Mary. Look closely and you can even see a depiction of Suger himself.
Other points of interest include a copy of the Oriflamme, which was the standard carried by French kings into battle for several centuries; and the tomb of Dagobert I, dating from the 13th century and designed to encourage other kings to be buried in the church.
Who is buried at the Basilica of Saint-Denis
All but five kings of France are buried at Saint-Denis.
During the Revolution, the bones were dug up and placed in two common graves north of the basilica. They were again dug up during the Bourbon restoration and brought back to Saint-Denis. These bones are kept in the Ossuary, a small room in the crypt.
Among those buried at Saint-Denis are:
- Clovis (c. 466 – 511): The first king of the Franks and as a result, widely regarded as the first king of proto-France. His adoption of Christianity forever changed the course of European history.
- Dagobert I (c. 603 – 639): King of the Franks, who was the first king to be buried at what is now the Basilica of Saint-Denis.
- Louis IX (1214 – 1270): The only French king to be canonized. It was Louis who ordered that the statues representing the kings buried at Saint-Denis be made.
- Henry II (1519 – 1559) and his queen Catherine de’ Medici (1519 – 1589): After Henry’s death in a tournament, his widow Catherine became one of the most powerful women of the 16th century.
- Henry IV (1553 – 1610): The only king of France who was at one point a Protestant, he pragmatically converted to Catholicism to strengthen his position and end the religious and political strife in his kingdom.
- Louis XIV (1638 – 1715): The longest verified reigning monarch in the world, and builder of the palace and gardens of Versailles.
- Louis XVI (1754 – 1793) and his queen Marie Antoinette (1755 – 1793): Famously guillotined during the French Revolution, their bodies were recovered during the Bourbon Restoration and reburied at Saint-Denis.
- Louis XVII (1785 – 1795): Son of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, he died as a result of the deprivations he suffered in prison during the French Revolution. His body is missing, but his heart is preserved in the basilica.
How to visit the Basilica of Saint-Denis
Location
The basilica is located at 1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 93200 Saint-Denis, France.
The basilica is about 25 – 40 minutes outside of the center of Paris via metro. Take metro line 13 and stop at “Basilique de Saint-Denis.” From there, it’s a short walk to the basilica.
Yes, this is outside the standard tourist area and the suburb of Saint-Denis has the reputation of being somewhat seedy and slightly dangerous. Honestly, I found that if you during the day and you head straight to and from the metro, you should be fine.
Opening Times
April to September:
Monday to Saturday: 10am – 5:45pm
Sunday: 12pm – 5:45pm
October to March:
Monday to Saturday: 10am – 4:45pm
Sunday: 12pm – 4:45pm
Closed during religious services and on January 1, May 1, and December 25.
The necropolis also occasionally closes for religious service. Check the website for details.
Tickets
The church itself is free. You do, however, need to pay to enter the necropolis, where the kings and queens of France are buried. Prices are:
€11 – Adult
Under 18 enter free
So there you have it! Will you be adding a visit to the Basilica of Saint-Denis on your next trip to Paris? Let me know in the comments!
Want to check out more Paris churches? Check out the 12 best here!
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