If you’re looking for an overview of some of the greatest art Austria has produced, look no further than the Belvedere.
The Belvedere Palace was originally constructed in 1723 as the summer residence of Prince Eugene of Savoy, one of Austria’s greatest military commanders.
After Eugene’s death, the palace eventually came under the ownership of the ruling Hapsburgs. Empress Maria Theresa transferred several paintings to the Belvedere; these were made available for public viewing in 1781, making the Belvedere one of the oldest museums in the world.
Today the collection is administered by the Austrian Belvedere Gallery. It is comprised of three main buildings: the Upper Belvedere (which houses the main permanent collection), the Lower Belvedere (which hosts a range of rotating exhibits), and Belvedere 21 (which displays some of the collection’s most modern pieces). We’ll focus mostly on the Upper Belvedere.
Keep reading to find out more of the best things to see at the Belvedere!
Table of Contents
Paintings
1. Crucifix by Woodcarver from Tyrol
Year: 12th century
This wooden crucifix is the oldest item in the Belvedere’s collection. Like many works from the medieval period, its artist is unknown.
I appreciate the piece’s quiet, simple majesty. Its stiffness is quintessential Romanesque; only later, after devastating plagues ravaged Europe, would crucifixion scenes emphasize Christ’s suffering.
2. Prince Eugene of Savoy as Commander by Johann Gottfried Auerbach
Year: c. 1725/1730
Naturally, there had to be at least one painting of Eugene himself. He is depicted at his best, as a field commander.
Originally French, Eugene left his native land after King Louis XIV denied him a commission in the French army for being…too ugly.
I’ll leave it to you to determine whether or not Louis’ criticism was justified.
3. Character Heads by Franz Xavier Messerschmidt
Year: 1770 – 1783
I was surprised to stumble upon these character heads at the Belvedere. At first I thought they were modern – the sometimes comical, sometimes almost grotesque expressions appear the exact opposite of the flattering images that usually characterize Baroque art – but I was wrong.
Messerschmidt created several of these self-portraits, depicting various exaggerated emotions. The reason behind these odd creations remains something of a mystery – Messerschmidt reputedly suffered from madness.
4. Napoleon Crossing the Alps by Jacques Louis David
Year: 1801
If this isn’t a stunning and romanticized piece of propaganda, I don’t know what is. (What do I mean? Well for starters, Napoleon was actually dressed in practical winter clothes and was riding a mule.)
It’s also one of the most commonly reproduced images of Napoleon.
Five versions of the painting exist, so if you’ve visited Versailles and are having a bit of déjà-vu, you’re not imagining it. The version at the Belvedere was originally meant for the Royal Palace of Milan in Italy before being confiscated by the Austrians in the early 19th century.
5. Rocky Landscape in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains by Caspar David Friedrich
Year: 1822 – 1823
Caspar David Friedrich was one of the most important German artists of the Romantic era.
Rocky Landscape in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains includes several motifs that characterize his works: a dark, moody landscape, barren tree, and mysterious mist.
6. Portrait of Père Paul by Claude Monet
Year: 1882
French Impressionist artist Monet is best known for his paintings of nature, particularly his garden at Giverny (and the Belvedere has a sample of those, don’t worry).
This painting is one of the few he portraits he painted after the death of his first wife, Camille. It depicts Paul Antoine Graff, who, in addition to being a chef, ran a small hotel Monet stayed at the year the portrait was painted.
7. Judith I by Gustav Klimt
Year: 1901
Klimt was by no means the first artist to depict the biblical heroine Judith, who seduced and then beheaded the Assyrian general Holofernes to save Jerusalem and the Jewish people.
What separates Klimit’s interpretation is his rendering of Judith as a salacious femme fatale. With her hooded eyes and state of undress, Klimt allows the viewer to glimpse the sexual prowess Judith used to lure Holofernes, whose severed head appears barely an afterthought.
8. The Kiss by Gustav Klimt
Year: 1908
This paintings needs almost no introduction. The Kiss is, by far, the Belvedere’s star attraction. I expected there to be a crowd here – and I was right.
Klimt was a founding member of the Vienna Secession and served as its first president. The Vienna Secession itself was inspired by Art Nouveau; The Kiss is the movement’s masterpiece.
9. Portrait of Eduard Kosmack by Egon Schiele
Year: 1910
Egon Schiele had been a mentee of Klimt. Finding his own artistic style, he became an early proponent of Expressionism.
Schiele is best remembered for his many self-portraits and sexual paintings. In this painting, however, he demonstrates his ability to bring his sitter’s shy and withdrawn personality to the forefront.
10. Forester’s House in Weissenbach I on the Attersee I by Gustav Klimt
Year: 1914
Klimt may be known for his paintings of women, but for the last twenty years of his life he also painted a number of landscapes. His inspiration came primarily from the Attersee lake, where he spent his summers.
The house shown in this painting still exists today.
Other things to see at the Belvedere
Art isn’t the only thing to see at the Belvedere. The architecture and gardens alone are worth the visit.
1. Gardens
The Upper and Lower Belvedere palaces are linked together by formal gardens. They were design by Dominique Girard in French style. (Prince Eugene was originally from France, although French formal gardens were all the rage in Europe at this time.)
The gardens are at their best effect in the warmer months. Also, if you’re on a budget, they’re free to roam around!
2. Marble Hall
This beautifully baroque room is one of the Belvedere’s highlights, featuring trompe l’oeil paintings and an elaborate ceiling fresco.
In 1955, representatives from the US, USSR, UK, and France (all of whom had been occupying Austria post-WWII) gathered in the room to sign the Austrian State Treaty. Austria finally had its independence back.
3. The view of Vienna
The Upper Belvedere offers a fantastic view of Vienna.
If you’re going to the Kunsthistoriches Museum, look out for out for the painting Vienna Viewed from the Belvedere Palance, 1758/61. I was pleasantly surprised to find the view has remained largely the same as it was in the mid-18th century.
How to visit the Belvedere
For the Upper Belvedere*:
Address: Prinz-Eugen-Straße 27, 1030 Vienna
How to get there: The nearest public transport stop is the “Schloß Belvedere” stop on the street tram (straßebahn) line D.
Opening hours: Daily 9:00 – 6:00pm
Prices:
Adults: €21 (€19.50 if bought online)
Seniors over 65 and students under 26: €17.50 (€15.50 if bought online)
Children under 19: Free
For most up-to-date and additional prices, check out the official website.
To purchase tickets onsite, note that the tickets are sold in the small ticket office just south and west of the Upper Belvedere itself. Once you have your ticket, you’ll walk around to the front entrance of the main palace to access the palace interior.
Entrance may be timed, depending on the crowds. When I visited, I was able to walk right in and get a ticket for the same time, but this isn’t always the case.
Other information: There is a secure locker room in the main palace where you can leave your large bags and coats. Just be sure you have a €1 or €2 euro coin for the lock mechanism to work.
Nearby sites: If you’re interested in military history (and even if you’re not), check out the Museum of Military History. Among the highlights of this museum are the car used and uniform worn by Archduke Franz Ferdinand when he was assassinated in Sarajevo in 1914 – the event that sparked the First World War.
*Information for visiting the Lower Belvedere and Belvedere 21 may be different. See the official website for details.
Looking for more things to do in Vienna? Check out the 12 best here!
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